The Beaujolais Project: Saint-Amour
Beaujolais wines present a full spectrum of notes and flavors, characterized by their uniqueness and high quality. Crafted by passionate and talented winemakers, these wines embody excellence. This is precisely why I selected Beaujolais for my yearlong wine exploration. The first cru that marked the beginning of my journey is Saint-Amour.
For those accustomed to enjoying wine, Saint-Amour is likely a familiar cru you’ve encountered or tasted before. Its popularity, especially during the Valentine’s Day season, is attributed to its name. According to a legend, a Roman soldier named Amor converted to Christianity and founded a monastery overlooking the Saône Valley.
Saint-Amour, the most northerly cru in Beaujolais, lies just south of Burgundy’s Mâconnais appellations of Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran. While a small part of Juliénas extends farther north, Saint-Amour is often acknowledged as the most northerly cru in the region. The hills to the west of Beaujolais embrace Saint-Amour, providing protection from severe weather from the north and minimizing the risk of potential mildew. This protection is crucial, as mildew can lead to infections, smaller berries, and reduced sugar levels.
The elevation and south-southeast facing vineyards maximize exposure to sunlight, especially during the ripening season. Consequently, the harvest in this part of Beaujolais occurs earlier than in the flatter southern lands of Beaujolais. In fact, wines from this cru can be bottled just a few weeks after Beaujolais Nouveau.
According to the 2024 Beaujolais Guide by Benjamin Lewin, MW, Saint-Amour boasts a total growing area of 330 hectares, making it the second smallest among the ten crus. Despite its size, this cru features a diverse soil composition. The predominant soils include Piedmont deposits (48%), granite (22%), blue stone (9.9%), along with traces of limestone, marl, and clay. These varied soils play a crucial role in shaping the minerality profile found in the wines of Saint-Amour.
Unlike Burgundy, where the term ‘cru’ is applied to specific vineyards, in Beaujolais, it refers to subregions. While wines from the ten Beaujolais crus are generally considered superior to the general Beaujolais AOC, the true gems often emerge from the lieu-dits within each cru. Saint-Amour, with its various lieu-dits, stands out for housing notable vine growing spots featuring more complex soils and superior sunlight exposure compared to the broader region. Wines from these lieu-dits, skillfully crafted by talented winemakers, uniquely express the terroir. Here are some notable lieu-dits in Saint-Amour.
Côte de Besset, En Paradis, La Folie, Le Châtelet, Le Clos de la Brosse, Le Clos des Billards, Le Clos des Guillons, Le Clos du Chapître, Le Mas des Tines, Les Bonnets, Les Champs Grillés, Vers l’Eglise, etc.
The wines from Saint-Amour are renowned for their prominent red fruit notes, including strawberries, cranberries, red currants, and red plums. This region offers two major styles of wine: one characterized by being light, fruity, and perfumed, while the other is bold, complex, and powerful. The distinct styles result from various factors such as soil complexity, crop quality, and the vinification process. I am going to refrain from declaring one style as superior to the other; it’s ultimately a matter of personal preference. The essence of a wine lies in the thoughts and efforts reflected in its creation, and skilled winemakers consistently strive to craft wines that express the terroir and reflect their philosophy.
The carbonic maceration process typically imparts fruity, light, and floral notes, making the wine enjoyable within a few years of bottling. Additional oak influence adds complexity and weight, extending the aging potential of the wine. Some claim that wines from Saint-Amour share similarities with those from Chambolle-Musigny, specifically Les Amoureuses. While I can’t personally attest to this assertion due to my limited experience, it’s noteworthy that Saint-Amour comes at a more accessible price point than Chambolle-Musigny. This provides an opportunity to experience a glimpse of the highly regarded region and terroir, which is undoubtedly a plus.
During my Saint-Amour exploration, I had the pleasure of uncorking two bottles. Each presented a distinct style—one was light and vibrant, dancing with lively notes, while the other embraced a fuller, bolder, and concentrated character. Both, in their uniqueness, proved to be truly fantastic wines that offered a delightful and memorable drinking experience.
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2020 Famille Dutraive Saint-Amour ‘Clos du Chapître’
The Dutraive family is renowned for producing high-quality wines in Beaujolais, and their Domaine de la Grand’Cour, based in Fleurie, stands as one of the oldest domaines in the region. In 1969, Jean Dutraive acquired the domaine, laying the foundation for its legacy. His son, Jean-Louis Dutraive, joined the family business in 1977 and took over the domaine in 1989. Jean-Louis is celebrated as one of the master winemakers in Beaujolais, recognized for his expertise in expressing unique terroirs and showcasing the full range of Gamay. The domaine has held organic certification since 2009.
To involve his three children in the winemaking business, Jean-Louis Dutraive founded Famille Dutraive. The label not only represents tradition and passion but also signifies the continuation of winemaking excellence into the younger generation. Wines from Famille Dutraive are crafted with purchased grapes from carefully selected lieu-dit, adhering to organic farming practices.
The 2020 Famille Dutraive Saint-Amour Clos du Chapître offers a rich tapestry of flavors, including ripe red cherry, black cherry, black plum, blackberry, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and dried roses, with subtle rocky hints. The wine exhibits silky and soft tannins, placing it between medium and full-bodied. The vines, planted in 1970 on schist and granite, contribute to the wine’s unique character.
The winemaking process involves carbonic maceration and oak aging, both playing significant roles expressing fruit and spice notes. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, this process enhances the fuller spectrum of the juice and allows the expressive terroir to shine through. It stands as a beautiful expression of Saint-Amour, most likely to be appreciated by many Burgundy lovers. As a side note, ‘Clos du Chapître’ translates to ‘the closing of the chapter,’ signifying the lieu-dit’s location on the eastern end of Saint-Amour, enveloping the region.
I thoroughly enjoyed this wine and was truly impressed by the winemaker’s ability to create a complex and powerful wine that is equally enjoyable on its own. This experience has heightened my anticipation for tasting wines from Domaine de la Grand’Cour during my dedicated Fleurie exploration in the coming months.
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2022 Yann Bertrand Beaujolais Saint Amour ‘Les Bambins’
While Dutraive’s wine leaned towards the traditional and elegant palate, Bertrand’s ‘Les Bambins’ exuded a cool and hip vibe with a notable influence of natural wine. The drastic contrast between these two bottles that I picked added an extra layer to my enjoyment, showcasing the diversity within the world of Beaujolais.
The Bertrand domaine operates as a small family venture. After taking over the family farm in 1992, Guy and Annick Bertrand initially sold wine in large quantities. In 2012, Yann joined his parents, marking the beginning of estate bottling. Prior to joining the family operation, Yann gained mentorship from Beaujolais legends Jean Foillard and Yvon Métras. The estate holds vineyards in Fleurie, Morgon, and other parts of Beaujolais.
This particular cuvée, Les Bambins, is crafted from purchased grapes sourced from a single vineyard, La Côte de Besset, in Saint-Amour, with vine ages ranging from 55 to 65 years. According to the importer, the soil composition of the vineyard includes a mix of blue stones from mica schists and sandstone scree. This cuvée is a testament to Yann’s micro-négotiant approach, collaborating closely with passionate and serious growers in the region who share the vision of creating high-quality crops through sustainable farming practices.
Notably, Les Bambins holds a special meaning for Yann Bertrand, translating to ‘the toddlers’ in English. The very first vintage of this cuvée coincided with the year he became a father.
This wine underwent a cold carbonic maceration for 17 days before aging in used oak barrels for eight months. It was then bottled unfiltered and unfined, with no added sulfur. On the palate, the wine revealed a vibrant, light, and lively character, with strong fruit flavors such as red and black plum, cranberry, raspberry, blueberry, and a subtle hint of strawberry, along with notes reminiscent of fruit punch and Dr. Pepper. While not as robust as Dutraive’s wine, the delicate spice undertones, reminiscent of Dr. Pepper, were likely contributed by the aging process in used barrels. This wine was simply beautiful—easy-drinking, fruity, and perfect for a leisurely Saturday afternoon.
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The first month of my Beaujolais exploration was a great success. I thoroughly enjoyed delving into a new region and experiencing the wines crafted by talented makers who convey their stories through their passion. For the upcoming month, I’m turning my focus to Juliénas—an often overlooked Beaujolais cru that holds its own unique charm.
Appendix:
Here are some articles I referred to when writing this post. I want to credit these writers for their knowledge, effort, and passion.
Verve Mag: All You Need to Know About the 10 Crus of Beaujolais
Wien Cellars: The Impact of Soil and Climate on Wine Flavor
Burgundy Report: Saint-Amour: Village Profile
Food Wine Click: A Burgundian Approach to Beaujolais
Wine Searcher: Saint-Amour Wine
Here’s the list of next month’s wine from Juliénas:
2020 Domaine Chignard Juliénas Beauvernay
2022 Michel Tête Juliénas Domaine du Clos du Fief Tradition