The Beaujolais Project: Juliénas
After savoring every sip of wines from Saint-Amour in January, I embarked on the second chapter of my Beaujolais journey with wines from Juliénas. The significance of Juliénas as a winemaking region dates back 2,000 years, with legend suggesting the region’s name was bestowed by Julius Caesar. The rich history of producing fine wines for two centuries was intriguing enough to anticipate my exploration of this region.
Situated in the northern part of the Beaujolais region, Juliénas is notable for its elevation. Despite its height, the deep slope facing south ensures ample sunlight for ripening berries. Unlike Saint-Amour and other Beaujolais crus, Juliénas boasts the most interesting soil composition. According to the 2024 Beaujolais Guide by Benjamin Lewin, MW, Juliénas is rich in diorite, also known as volcanic blue rocks, comprising 42% of its terroir in the west, while the east is more sedimentary. Granite, a component present in the soil of all ten crus, is the least prevalent in Juliénas, accounting for only 3%. Juliénas wines tend to be sturdier than most crus, contributing to their aging potential. Additionally, due to the unique and diverse soil profile, each Juliénas wine can exhibit distinct characteristics rather than identifiable notes and flavors.
Some of the well-known lieu-dits include Les Fouillouses, Les Mouilles, La Bottière, Vayollette, Bessay, En Rizière, Beauvernay, Bois de la Salle, Cotoyon, and Les Capitans. Lewin particularly highlights Les Capitans as the best-known lieu-dit of the region for its “schist and basalt in the center of the cru.”
2020 Domaine Chignard Juliénas Beauvernay
Given the complexity of Juliénas, I decided to delve into the terroir and notable makers by focusing on each lieu-dit to truly appreciate this unique region. My journey began with a bottle from Domaine Chignard, where Cédric had taken over the domaine in 2007, following in his father Michel's footsteps. I was particularly drawn to this wine knowing I would later have the opportunity to taste a bottle of Domaine Chignard’s Fleurie from 2000, crafted by Michel before he passed the reins to his son.
Among Chignard’s lineup, Beauvernay stood out as a relatively newer cuvée. The vines, planted in 1946, contribute to its electric and racy acidity, cutting through with precision. Beauvernay’s soil profile is predominantly diorite, with traces of granite, placing it among the granite-rich parts of Juliénas.
Personally, I found this wine to be a bit challenging, indicating it needs further bottle aging to soften and balance its fruit-forwardness and minerality. The influence of volcanic soil was pronounced, evoking memories of wines from the Canary Islands, with their sharp and high-mineral flavor profiles. Despite its initial boldness, the wine exhibited complexity, with dominant notes of dark plum, purple fruits, blackberry, violet, red plum, purple beet, raspberry, mountain berry, stale celery, cotton candy, pomegranate, and pencil shavings. I look forward to revisiting this wine (if I can procure the exact vintage) in a few years to witness its development.
This wine was produced using the traditional Beaujolais technique of carbonic maceration, which accounts for its fruit-forward character. For anyone intrigued by the prospect of experiencing terroir-driven Beaujolais wines, I wholeheartedly recommend this one as a must-try. Its unique soil components impart distinct umami and nuanced notes, elevating the tasting experience to a whole new level.
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2022 Domaine du Clos du Fief Juliénas Michel Tête Tradition
Lewin’s guidebook highlights Clos du Fief as one of the reference winemakers for the Juliénas region. Unlike Chignard, Clos du Fief adopts a mixed style, employing semi-carbonic maceration and aging in barriques. This approach lends a touch of Burgundian flair to their wines, while still maintaining a fruit-forward character.
Domaine Clos du Fief is a family-owned business with a rich heritage spanning four generations. After studying in Beaune, Michel Tête assumed leadership of the family enterprise, infusing his winemaking process in Beaujolais with Burgundian techniques. Together, Michel and his son Sylvain form a dynamic father-son team dedicated to delivering high-quality wines to consumers through low-yield, meticulous, and sustainable farming practices. Undoubtedly, this winemaker is one to watch for those seeking exceptional wines of unparalleled quality.
With high expectations set by Lewin’s guide and intrigued by its accessibility and affordability, I eagerly anticipated tasting this cuvée. I acquired this bottle during my time in Albany for a mere $18, and its availability in numerous reputable wine stores across the city was indeed a delight, especially amidst the rising prices of Beaujolais wines.
Upon opening, the wine exhibited signs of readiness to be enjoyed, despite its relative youth. While allowing it to breathe for an hour prior to consumption would enhance its flavors, it was already quite enjoyable straight out of the bottle. This cuvée reminded me of an entry-level Burgundy red, akin to a Bourgogne Rouge, with its abundance of fruit and sweet spice notes, perfectly balanced body, and supple tannins. It piqued my curiosity about other cuvées by Tête, and I eagerly anticipate exploring more of their offerings in the future. While the aroma of the wine was dominated by the influence of carbonic maceration, the taste was distinctly Burgundian, making it an appealing choice for those who may not favor the “Classic” Beaujolais style.
The wine presented dominant notes of black plum, red plum, blackberry, strawberry, cranberry, fresh prune, sweet spices (nutmeg and cinnamon), and pomegranate.
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Both of these wines did not survive until the next day. In other words, they did not develop much more complexity beyond their initial presentation and declined. However, when uncorked, they showcased their full range of notes and aroma. These wines would make a perfect choice for any wine dinner, especially when you are uncertain about the type of food being served. The Chignard will be more enjoyable if decanted or opened an hour or two prior to consuming. It will be an interesting addition to any wine lineup, showcasing more terroir-driven characteristics. On the other hand, the Clos du Fief, while younger, is ready to be enjoyed immediately and will satisfy a broader range of palates.
Regarding the aging potential of these wines, the Chignard can age up to ten years and will benefit from bottle aging. The Clos du Fief is likely at its peak and will remain good for another two to three years.
Thoughts and appendix:
I will be revisiting a bottle of Domaine Chignard in the month of Fleurie. I have an aged bottle from 2000, and I believe it will be fascinating to observe how Beaujolais wines age.
Chénas is the next:
2022 Domaine Anita Chénas Cuvée P’tit Co
2021 Famille Dutraive Chénas En Papolet