The Beaujolais Project: Moulin-à-Vent
Finally, the Cru I eagerly anticipated arrived: Moulin-à-Vent. When you search for images of vineyards in Beaujolais, a photo of a windmill often pops up. That is the hallmark of this Cru. Moulin-à-Vent literally translates into English as ‘Windmill.’ The windmill, which has sat atop the hill since the 15th century, is classified as a historical monument and a popular photo spot.
According to a blog post by Flatiron Wines and Spirits, the market once priced Moulin-à-Vent and Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru wines the same before World War II. However, this is no longer the case, as any wine from Vosne-Romanée is not associated with affordability. This implies that wines from Moulin-à-Vent are true hidden and underrated gems that are still reasonably priced. Many savvy consumers have been stocking up on Moulin-à-Vent before similar price increases occur in the near future.
The nickname for Moulin-à-Vent is the “King of Beaujolais.” This Cru is located at 255 meters and is known for its distinctive soils, which consist of granite, limestone, marl, and sandstone with prominent manganese and iron contents. Unlike other crus, Moulin-à-Vent has the most homogeneous soil composition of all. Manganese plays an interesting role here; while an excess of manganese can harm vines and eventually kill them, in this Cru, its presence is just enough to control grape yields, resulting in more concentrated berries and fuller wines. What about the higher iron content? Iron is known for its association with a wine’s tannic structure, contributing to its aging potential. With the rich and unique soil of Moulin-à-Vent, more concentrated flavors and a robust tannic structure are showcased compared to other Beaujolais wines, ensuring that wines from this Cru have great promise for long-term cellaring. Some claim that when properly aged, they exhibit Burgundian and even Rhône characteristics.
Image from Beaujolais.com
When I tasted two bottles of Moulin-à-Vent last month, I noticed a remarkable balance: there was an easy-going quality that allowed me to sit back and simply enjoy, yet there was also a complexity that surpassed what I’ve encountered in other Beaujolais Crus. These wines were more tannic, structured, complex, concentrated, and, in a way, majestic. In fact, one of the wines I tasted was so captivating that I forgot to jot down any notes.
As always, I purchased two bottles to sample the essence of Moulin-à-Vent. I enjoyed the month of Moulin-à-Vent so much that I entertained the idea of opening more than just two bottles. However, my conscience intervened just in time, urging me to exercise restraint, so I limited myself to two. The esteemed makers I selected for this Cru are Domaine Diochon and Domaine Mee Godard, chosen for two distinct reasons. Diochon represents a great example of Beaujolais’s traditional style, while Mee Godard embodies the Burgundian influence. I anticipated that they would offer different expressions of the rich terroirs. The second reason is akin to the first; Diochon, akin to the ‘big brother’ of the region, has been producing wine in the Cru since 1935, epitomizing tradition. In contrast, Mee Godard is a newcomer, entering Beaujolais in 2013 as a one-woman operation. These wines were truly beautiful.
2021 Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes
Domaine Diochon, established in 1935, saw Bernard Diochon assume leadership from his father in 1967. Upon his retirement, with no family members to carry on the legacy, the domaine now rests in the hands of Thomas Patenôtre. Situated just across the road from the famous windmill, Domaine Diochon adheres to the most traditional Beaujolais winemaking methods, employing semi-carbonic maceration.
The domaine offers two cuvées: Tradition and Vieilles Vignes. Tradition hails from a parcel close to Fleurie, with 50-year-old vines in the Champ du Cour near the winery. Vieilles Vignes, on the other hand, originates from 100-year-old vines in Champ du Cour. Tradition is aged in old foudres, while Vieilles Vignes matures in old barriques. Both cuvées epitomize the traditional and quintessential style of Beaujolais wines.
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I allowed this wine about an hour and thirty minutes to breathe before indulging. It opened up beautifully, revealing notes of red cherry, blackberry, cranberry, black plum, and clove. The semi-carbonic maceration accentuated its fruit-forward characteristics, a feature I particularly enjoy. As someone who appreciates the flavor profile of semi-carbonic maceration, this wine was a delight to savor. Imported by Kermit Lynch, a key player in introducing quality Cru Beaujolais wines to North American palates, this bottle is a testament to his legacy. For those interested in his journey, I highly recommend his book, ‘Adventures on the Wine Route.’
I purchased this wine at Empire Wine in Albany last December for $22—a great deal considering its beautiful fruit notes, aging potential, origin from 100-year-old vines, and overall deliciousness. I would enthusiastically recommend it not only to seasoned palates but also to aspiring wine enthusiasts.
2020 Domaine Mee Godard Moulin-à-Vent Les Michelons
Domaine Mee Godard came into existence in 2013 when its founder, trained as an oenologist, seized the opportunity to take over plots from an old winemaker without an heir—a dream come true moment for her. The plots she acquired are situated in some of the finest terroirs in all of Morgon, including Côte du Py, Corcelette, and Grand Cras.
In contrast to other traditional Beaujolais makers, she adopted a Burgundian winemaking style, employing whole bunch pressing, partial destemming, small extraction, and longer aging in wood. This approach results in wines with higher tannins, mineral complexity, and roundness.
Her venture into Moulin-à-Vent is a relatively recent development, beginning in 2016. The plot, Les Michelons, possesses all the elements necessary to create a beautiful cuvée. The soil composition of this plot is a blend of pink granite decomposition and sand. Facing south/southwest and located north of the appellation at an altitude of 400 meters, it boasts an ideal environment for grape cultivation.
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I have to admit, I was starting to feel a bit jaded about my year-long Beaujolais journey, until my wine friend Stefie suggested I try Mee Godard. After some searching, I couldn't locate her famous Morgon cuvées, but I did find a bottle of her Moulin-à-Vent at Crush Wine and Spirits. I wasted no time in placing an order and picking it up.
This is the wine that left me speechless, so mesmerized by its beauty that I forgot to jot down any thoughts or notes. The flavor was incredibly concentrated, with prominent notes of black cherry, cinnamon, clove, vanilla, blackberry, and black plum. The small yield of 2020 likely contributed to the intense fruit concentration.
At $42 retail, it’s certainly on the pricier side for a Beaujolais wine. However, I found it to be well worth the investment, surpassing many wines in this price range, especially those from Burgundy.
Moulin-à-Vent truly lives up to its reputation as a standout Cru in the world of Beaujolais wines. It’s often the Cru that garners recommendations from everyone, and now I understand why. The unique terroirs of Moulin-à-Vent contribute to its distinct characteristics, setting it apart from other Beaujolais appellations.
Undoubtedly, Moulin-à-Vent deserves its title as the ‘King of Beaujolais,’ with its bold fruit-forwardness, mineral complexity, and fuller flavor spectrum. Having experienced its wines, I’m now eager to explore aged bottles to uncover the mature expression of this remarkable Cru.
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For next month’s exploration, I’ve decided to delve into Chiroubles. It’s certainly one of the lesser talked about and mentioned Crus, but I am certain that wines from Chiroubles offer unique personalities and characteristics. Situated at a high altitude just north of the Rhône, Chiroubles is considered to provide the best expression of Gamay. It’s another Cru that I believe is worth cellaring for a more aged expression.