Next Generation of Sicilian Winemakers
It’s always exciting to taste wines from an area I’m not familiar with, but it’s even more thrilling when they’re made by up-and-coming winemakers who are poised to influence the future of winemaking. I recently attended a class at Jersey Wine and Spirits to learn more about Sicilian wines, particularly focusing on the next generation of Sicilian winemakers.
Throughout my wine journey, I’ve tried many Italian wines, mainly from the Piedmont and Tuscan regions. However, Italy offers far more than just these two winemaking areas. In fact, Italy is one of the most fascinating countries for winemaking, thanks to the myriad of indigenous varietals grown in each province. Sicily is another region producing wines with unique characteristics. Whenever in doubt, attending a class is always the best way to learn about a region and to taste many delicious wines.
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Sicily boasts a rich winemaking history that dates back to 4000 BC. The region benefits from a warm and dry climate, moderate rainfall, ample sunlight, and coastal breezes. This combination also reduces the chances of rot and mildew affecting the fruits and vines. Thanks to these excellent farming conditions, Sicily also supports the cultivation of olives, citrus fruits, and grains.
Traditionally, Sicily was known for mass-producing wines that were mostly consumed throughout inland Europe, including the sweet Marsala wines often used in cooking. However, this trend is now changing thanks to the efforts of a new generation of winemakers.
Jason, from Jersey Wine and Spirits, masterfully selected five wines from four talented winemakers for the class. Each wine displayed distinctive characteristics that reflected the winemakers’ philosophy.
2022 Aldo Viola Brutto Vino Fizzante Bianco
This pét nat undergoes fermentation directly in the bottle, producing a delightfully bubbly wine. The visionary winemaker, Aldo Viola, isn’t afraid to defy norms. Made from the Catarratto varietal, grown in northwest Sicily on iron-rich limestone soil, the wine is opaque with pleasantly crisp fizziness. I detected a rich array of stone fruits such as white peach, nectarine, and yellow peach, complemented by notes of orange peel and yeast. Interestingly, the combination of orange and peach notes brought back memories of the cold medicine from my childhood.
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2022 Manfredi Franco Terre Siciliane Bianco
This blend of Grillo, Catarratto, and Zibibbo undergoes a meticulous process: destemmed, maceration with the skins for three days in an open vat, followed by fermentation in a 500-liter chestnut barrel for 15 days, and finally aging in stainless steel for nine months.
The wine presents an oily texture and a well-defined structure. A subtle whiff of barnyard aroma, which I often associate with volcanic soil, adds interesting layers. Upon tasting, the wine reveals its complexity with an array of intriguing notes including yellow peach, apricot, nectarine, white flowers, honey, burnt orange, pomegranate, bitter orange, and tropical fruits.
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2022 Gustinella Jungimmune Bianco
Originally from Sicily but raised in Milan, winemaker Sonia Gambino honed her winemaking skills at Château Léoville Las Cases in Bordeaux before returning to Sicily to produce her own wine. Her blend consists of Grecanico Dorato, Minnella, Albanella, and Moscatella. All the grapes spent three days on the skins, were fermented, and then aged for ten months in stainless steel.
The wine displayed a complex array of notes. I detected orange blossom, lemon syrup, honeysuckle, parsley, wet stone, white flowers, lemon juice, jasmine, chamomile, yellow peach, and yellow apple. The vines were cultivated alongside various flowers and plants, which likely contributed to the wine's complex character. This wine promises to age beautifully, yet it is still very pleasant to enjoy young.
* Jungimmune means “let’s join together” in Sicilian — well portrayed in the label.
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2022 Gustinella Jungimmune Rosso
Another offering from Sonia Gambino, this red wine is pure yet packed with rich flavors. It is a blend of Grenache, Nerello Mascalese, and Tinto Nero, fermented in stainless steel for about nine to ten months. The wine reveals layers of cranberry, blood orange, strawberry, red plum, red cherry, and white pepper. Its light and delicate, yet well-balanced structure makes it an excellent pairing for a wide range of foods—from a charcuterie board to barbecued red meats and pizza, or even fatty fish like salmon and tuna.
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2021 Eduardo Torres Acosta Terre Siciliane Rosso Versante Nord
The winemaker, originally from the Canary Islands—another well-known winemaking region with rich volcanic soil—has crafted this wine using Nerello Mascalese and other indigenous varietals from the north-facing slopes of Mt. Etna. The wine is fermented and aged in concrete vats. Although this is considered an entry-level offering, it has the potential to age beautifully. It is rich and tannic, presenting flavors of cooked plum, black plum, black cherry, cherry cola, clove, and cumin. Interestingly, despite the absence of oak aging, the presence of spice notes is quite pronounced, adding an intriguing layer to the wine's profile.
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I would like to applaud Jason for presenting this wonderful lineup of wines and for organizing such an exceptional class.
This was a fantastic opportunity to learn more about Sicilian wines and the next generation of passionate winemakers. An area once known for producing mass-produced, inexpensive bulk wine is now in the hands of talented young makers who are transforming the reputation of Sicilian wine. The rich soil, great exposure to sunlight, and high altitude provide all the necessary factors for producing high-quality wine. With visionaries like these winemakers at the helm, there is no doubt that the future of Sicilian wine will be bright.