Pink, Bubbles, Ravel
photo 1.
2015 Alexandre Bonnet Champagne Rosé de Saignée ‘La Forêt’ Les Riceys
Maurice Ravel, Piano Concerto in G major
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Good wine is, well, good wine, regardless of its varietals or types. However, when it comes to preferences, it’s a different story. I have a penchant for rosé, even though many people consider it a seasonal drink. Champagne, too, is often reserved for celebrations. These stereotypes can be frustrating, but as someone who genuinely enjoys both, I am always inclined to open a bottle for any occasion––whether it is as simple as “I want bubbles” or “I'm having pizza for dinner.”
One day, the idea struck me: “Why not seek out rosé Champagne?” While I knew it existed, I had never considered trying it before. I didn’t want to settle for something mass-produced; I was on the lookout for something different and special. During one of our leisurely strolls in the neighborhood, we stumbled upon a wine shop we don’t typically frequent.
I have always enjoyed lookng into the backstory of the wine I am about to savor. The back label provided some intriguing details about this particular rosé Champagne. Since most winemakers don’t produce rosé Champagne in large quantities each year or at all, it was fascinating to learn about the number of bottles produced. I also encountered a new term: Rosé de Saignée, which translates to “bleeding” and refers to the color drawn from the grape skins. Achieving the perfect hue requires the winemaker’s expertise, and extended skin contact adds depth and flavor.
photo 2. The back label tells the story about this wine.
My overall experience with this wine was exceedingly pleasant. To begin with, the color and effervescence in my glass were captivating. As someone who appreciates fine bubbles and rosé, I found that this Champagne delivered more than its appearance suggested. With some bottle aging, it revealed a delightful complexity with each whiff and sip. The wine had a medium pink hue, likely a result of its time in the bottle or the extended skin contact. The aromas and flavors were remarkably harmonious. I detected primary notes of raspberry, cranberry, and strawberry, with hints of herbaceous undertones like dill and celery. Secondary notes of biscuit added an intriguing layer to the experience. The interplay between biscuit and strawberry reminded me of both strawberry shortcake and strawberry scone. This wine is truly a gem for those who appreciate the best of both rosé and Champagne worlds, blending their finest attributes.
I paired this rosé Champagne with two different types of cheese: Comté from Jura and St. Nectaire from Auvergne. Ideally, I would have chosen cheese from the Champagne or surrounding regions, but neither of these options came from anywhere near Champagne. Unfortunately, not all Whole Foods stores are equipped with a wide range of French cheese. I had previously tasted Comté, so I knew what to expect—hazelnut, cream, and butter notes emerge, depending on the maturation length. I believed that the biscuit and brioche characteristics of Champagne would generally complement the cheese. On the other hand, I couldn’t recall the last time I had tried St. Nectaire. It turned out to be creamier than Comté, with flavors of nuts, mushrooms, earth, and forest floor. The richness of St. Nectaire provided a delightful contrast to the crisp nature of Champagne.
Whenever I encounter a wine with a lively, effervescent charm, I am inspired to pair it with orchestral pieces. Certain composers have a gift for extracting the richest tones from instruments and blending their tonal qualities to create a new timbre. Names like Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov, Igor Stravinsky, Claude Debussy, Gustav Mahler, and Maurice Ravel come to mind. However, this particular wine ignited my imagination and drew me toward Maurice Ravel’s Piano Concerto in G major. It’s a piece beloved for its clever instrumentation, lively spirit, longing melodies, and a fountain of charms. Clocking in at just over twenty minutes, it’s a compact masterpiece when compared to other piano concertos of Ravel’s contemporaries.
I vividly recall my first encounter with this piece, listening to Krystian Zimerman’s recording with Pierre Boulez and the Cleveland Orchestra. What makes this concerto a delicate balancing act is the potential for either the soloist or the orchestra to overpower the other. In the recording, however, the piano and orchestra achieve a perfect balance, with the piano seamlessly blending into the orchestra’s soundworld. The unique timbres of instruments like the piccolo, flute, E flat clarinet, English horn, trumpet, French horn, snare drum, triangle, and slapstick still shone through when needed. I was also captivated by Zimerman’s refined execution of all the arpeggios and glissandi, which added a velvety texture to the performance. What you hear is undeniably charming, but there are intricate layers beneath those charming bubbles. Much like the wine, experiencing it firsthand is the only way to truly understand what I am talking about.
Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli | Sergiu Celibidache | London Symphony
Martha Argerich | Emmanuel Krivine | Orchestre National de France
Appendix:
Rosé Champagne, what’s Next?
Now that I’ve confirmed my love for rosé Champagne and rosé sparkling wines, the question is, which ones should I explore next or keep an eye out for during my next visit to a wine shop?
a. 2019 Schramsberg Brut Rosé: I had the pleasure of trying this at a tasting event at Sommcellars over the summer. I distinctly remember enjoying it. With its ripe fruits and blossoms at the forefront, refreshing effervescence, and a lingering aftertaste, this wine was truly excellent and offered great value.
b. NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé: Billecart-Salmon’s tête-de-cuvée, the 2008 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Louis Salmon, remains a personal favorite of mine, second only to Krug Grande Cuvée. I’m quite curious to see how their NV Brut Rosé compares. Will it still display similar complexity and finesse?
c. NV Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Rosé: With 90% of the grapes sourced from Ambonnay Grand Cru, I already have a bottle of 2020 Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Champenois Cuvée des Grands Côtés Vieilles Vignes Rouge Ambonnay. It will be intriguing to taste this wine after experiencing the Coteaux.