Californian Visionaries, Blazing New Trails
photo 1. The lineup (so many eye-catching labels.)
Every wine-making region has its signature varietal to represent itself – Pinot Noir for Bourgogne, Trebbiano for Abruzzo, Albariño for Galicia, Riesling for Mosel, Furmint for Tokaj, and so on. Popular varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay are cultivated worldwide, not limited to France. However, the globalization of grape varieties has led to diversification, owing to differing climates, preferred tastes, and winemaking techniques. For instance, Californian Pinot Noir tends to be riper and jammier than its Burgundian counterparts. But, as I have always believed, good wine is good wine, regardless of personal preferences.
We now live in a society where people seek uniqueness, look for something special, and crave the new. While winemakers continue to perfect their craft, they also explore innovative avenues. Many sought-after Californian winemakers are embracing the challenge of experimenting with new varietals that thrive in California’s climates and soils. This change is possible, likely due to more flexible regulations and rules compared to those in Europe.
I must admit that I have not ventured into Californian wines as extensively as French ones. I have tried them occasionally, but my experiences have been less frequent. I have always been on the lookout for opportunities to explore the craftsmanship of talented and passionate California winemakers. Recently, I received an email from Jersey Wine and Spirits about a class on the future of Californian wines, featuring lesser-known varietals suited to the region’s unique conditions. As someone who admires Jason’s expertise and exquisite selections for classes, I saw this as a great chance to learn more about Californian wines and decided to attend.
As always, Jason featured five different wines, including sparkling, white, and red. All the wines featured that evening had truly beautiful and captivating labels, even though I usually don’t judge my wine purchases solely by the label. The moment I saw them, I knew that each wine would share its own unique story. I was eager to embark on new wine journeys.
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photo 2. The side label of the NV Cruse Wine Co. Cruse Tradition
“Zero dosage and made with the traditional method, this bottle is a snapshot of California in bubbles. Spontaneous fermentation occured in a combination of wood and stainless steel vessels”
NV Cruse Wine Co. Cruse Tradition
The excitement was palpable, especially for someone like me who has a deep appreciation for Champagne. It was a delightful surprise to encounter a Californian gem crafted using the méthode traditionnelle. The particular sparkling wine, hailing from Cruse Co., boasts a 2019 base, composed of 73% Chardonnay and 27% Pinot Noir, sourced from four distinct vineyards.
As I gazed upon the beautiful pale gold liquid, it revealed a symphony of notes, including lemon, yeast, pear, celery, dill, green apple, cantaloupe, and a hint of quince. When it graced my palate, I was greeted with a medley of flavors: ripe green apple, lemon, tangerine orange, kumquat, pear, quince, dill, yellow peach, brioche, and biscuit. The finish, extending to a medium-plus length, left me with a refreshing aftertaste that lingered on my palate. It was akin to sipping Champagne, but with a twist: the fruits were noticeably riper, lending depth and a fuller mouthfeel. This sensation brought to mind the experience of enjoying slightly aged Champagnes.
As a side note, while this wine might be considered more of an entry-level sparkling wine, it is undeniably a thoughtfully crafted one. What's even more impressive is its affordable price point, making it an excellent choice as a gift for a party or a perfect selection to serve before dinner. Michael Cruse, well-known for his cult sparkling wine, Ultramarine, which features vintages from single vineyards, has now piqued my curiosity. After the delightful experience with the Tradition, I am excited to seek out Ultramarine during my next wine adventure.
photo 3. The side label of the 2021 Outward Shell Creek Vineyard Chenin Blanc
2021 Outward Shell Creek Vineyard Chenin Blanc
This wine is a remarkable creation by a husband-and-wife winemaking team based in Paso Robles. While they don’t own the vineyards themselves, they have a keen eye for sourcing grapes from vines that were planted back in 1971. Their dedication is evident in the fact that they produced only 72 cases of this unique wine.
Chenin Blanc, a varietal widely cultivated in the Loire Valley of France and South Africa, demonstrates its adaptability by thriving in various climates, warm, moderate, and cool. What’s fascinating about Chenin Blanc is its ability to maintain high acidity even in warmer climates.
The wine, with its pale gold hue, beckoned with enticing aromas of peach, wet stone, melon, vanilla, butter, and a hint of orange. As I took a sip, the mouthfeel was luxuriously buttery and oily, coating my palate with its richness. The flavors I discerned mirrored the enticing aroma. This wine underwent fermentation in neutral oak and was bottled unfined and unfiltered, preserving its authentic character.
photo 4. The back label of the 2021 A Tribute to Grace Grenache Blanc ‘Thompson Vineyard’
2021 A Tribute to Grace Grenache Blanc ‘Thompson Vineyard’
During the tasting, two wines truly distinguished themselves, and one of these standouts was this delightful creation. The talented winemaker behind this gem, Angela Osborne, originally from New Zealand, offers an explanation for the label on her website:
“I chose to name my label after two of my favourite things: my Grandmother Grace, and my most beloved attribute. My winemaking intention is to capture this spirit, and stay as close to nature as humanly possible. The trio is completed by the grape itself, which to me encapsulates grace.”
This wine was truly exceptional, displaying a remarkable balance and a plethora of endearing qualities. Its pale lemon color was adorned with a symphony of fragrances, including herbs, lime, lime rind, lemon, green pear, wet stone, mineral, capsicum, and delicate white flower blossom.
Upon sipping, I found that all the aromatic notes translated seamlessly onto the palate, and I also discovered hints of grapefruit, fennel, cilantro, and a subtle whisper of oak, owing to its fermentation in concrete and neutral barrique. Personally, I have a penchant for wines that feature a harmonious interplay of acidity, mineral character, and herbaceous notes that beautifully complement the fruit flavors. This wine encompassed all these elements with finesse.
While this specific quality may not suit everyone’s taste, I thoroughly enjoyed it. It was a wine crafted with grace and finesse, making it a standout in my book.
2022 Flora & Fauna “Idlewild” Red Wine
The mention of Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto immediately transports me to Northern Italy. However, this 2022 vintage draws inspiration from the Piemonte region and presents a unique blend of Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Nebbiolo, and Grignolino. It’s not every day you come across a bottle of wine featuring Piemonte varietals crafted in California.
This medium-ruby-colored wine captivated the senses with dark fruits like black cherry and black plum, along with the presence of red fruits like red cherry and red plum. What truly piqued my interest was the wine’s intriguing mouthfeel, which featured a slight fizz and a pronounced astringency. Given the high acidity and tannins, it’s possible that this wine may age gracefully in the bottle for a few years.
On the palate, I discovered a vibrant array of flavors, including blueberry, prune, blackberry, raspberry jam, and a touch of tomato leaf. This wine’s unique character stems from its vinification in clusters and its journey through carbonic maceration in stainless steel tanks.
I could easily envision this wine pairing exquisitely with dishes featuring tomato sauce as well as barbecued and grilled meats, creating a delightful culinary synergy.
2019 Lillian Syrah
Among the standouts of the evening, this particular wine also left a lasting impression. In a nutshell, I could not resist bringing this bottle home, as I had a strong hunch that my wife would thoroughly enjoy it as well. It’s one of those wines that promises to age gracefully in the bottle, evolving and developing even more complex flavors over the years. The only challenge I foresee is my own impatience, as I’m eager to experience its future evolution.
Putting my excitement aside, the pronounced aromas of both fresh and jammy blackberry, black plum, blueberry, vanilla, and sweet spices like nutmeg and cinnamon, with a subtle hint of tobacco, embraced my senses. Upon savoring it, I was treated to a harmonious medley of flavors that not only echoed the notes I detected on the nose but also introduced elements of black currant and a delightful hint of cigar box.
This wine is a project of Maggie Harrison, a true maestro in the world of winemaking. Her journey led her to create the ‘Lillian’ project, an endeavor born out of her love for winemaking, following her work with the renowned Californian winemaker, Sine Qua Non. This wine is nothing short of special and carries with it the mark of a true innovator.
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This class was an expertly curated journey that significantly broadened my understanding of Californian wine and the passionate winemakers who are blazing new trails in the industry. Prior to this experience, my knowledge of Californian wines and the dedicated makers shaping their own paths was quite limited. This class has left me with a strong desire to visit California, explore its wineries, and meet these talented winemakers in person, to delve deeper into their processes and learn more about their wines.
Appendix:
What’s next, Californian Cult Wines.
Cult followers of wines are drawn to them for various reasons, including their limited production, exceptional craftsmanship, outstanding quality, and the potential for their value to appreciate over time. Having gained insights into the world of passionate Californian winemakers and their winemaking ideals, I am now eager to seek out the crème de la crème among them. These wines are often both expensive and elusive, making it crucial to seize the opportunity when they come one’s way, if the budget allows. It is a pursuit driven by the desire to experience the pinnacle of winemaking excellence and to savor wines that hold a special place in the hearts of aficionados.
Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Keefer Ranch Sonoma Coast
Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Michael Mara Sonoma Coast
Sine Qua Non Distenta Grenache
Sine Qua Non Cumulus Vineyard ‘Next of Kyn’
Dominus Estate Christian Moueix
Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon