Pét Nat, Why Not?
photo 1. An eye-catching label. Cats in kimono enjoying a performance of mice playing music and dancing.
2021 Chanterêves Pét Nat
Deep Purple, Machine Head (1972)
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When it comes to Pétillant Naturel, it’s often seen by the general public as a trend or a hip fad that will eventually fade away, much like orange wine. Every time I encounter such views, it truly saddens me. I have a genuine appreciation for Pét Nat; it’s not just a passing interest for me. The transient nature of trends, which leads to a surge of newer producers jumping on the bandwagon and producing subpar Pét Nats, will likely diminish over time, in my opinion. This is because these offerings fail to provide any real value to wine enthusiasts like myself. In essence, quality wine speaks for itself.
Pét Nat, short for Pétillant Naturel, represents a distinctive variety of sparkling wine that undergoes bottling before the initial fermentation completes. The result is a delicate effervescence, with fine bubbles naturally forming within the bottles. These wines may occasionally contain unfiltered yeast particles, lending them a slightly cloudy appearance. In contrast to traditional cork closures, Pét Nats employ crown caps similar to those found on beer bottles. Known for their approachable and unpretentious character, Pét Nats offer a unique and easily enjoyable drinking experience.
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I first encountered Chanterêves at Somm Cellars at a Rosé tasting event. Among the 41 bottles presented, it was Chanterêves’s Marsannay Rosé that truly captured my attention. Intrigued, I delved into learning more about the winemakers behind it, as they were unfamiliar to me. One fascinating discovery was that Chanterêves is a venture led by a husband-and-wife duo who initially crossed paths while working at Domaine Simon Bize et Fils, one of my personal favorite winemakers in Bourgogne. To this day, Guillaume, as I understand, continues to serve as the cellar master at Bize. As one of Bourgogne’s most exceptional boutique producers, Chanterêves unquestionably deserves the spotlight.
I persistently searched for other wines by Chanterêves in New York, but it wasn’t easy to locate them. However, a fortunate turn of events occurred one day when my wife and I visited Wine Therapy to retrieve another item. During our visit, we stumbled upon a Pét Nat from Chanterêves. Since we were on foot and needed to carry our purchases home, we were limited in the number of bottles we could acquire. The decision of whether to add another Chanterêves bottle to our selection weighed on me. Ultimately, I opted to solely go for the Pét Nat.
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I had a classical music festival on my schedule, involving performances and featuring my participation. Serendipitously, my close friend was also part of the event. With plans to travel together, he arrived a couple of days prior to the festival’s commencement. He and I have shared innumerable wine bottles throughout our twenties, leading me to discern his preferences and familiar choices. This prompted me to select something entirely different, a wine he likely has never experienced before. Hence, my choice fell upon the 2021 Chanterêves Pét Nat.
First and foremost, the wine presents an eye-catching label featuring cats in kimonos observing mice in similar attire engaged in musical and dance festivities. This unconventional label serves as an engaging conversation starter, narrating the tale of a fun and laid-back wine. As the wine is poured into the glass, it reveals a graceful cascade of fine bubbles. The wine itself, presenting a pinkish hue with a subtle lavender undertone, remains notably cloudy, concealing its contents from view.
Upon nosing, a delightful medley of fresh fruits emerges, including the notes of red plum and red cherry. While the olfactory experience proves satisfactory, the taste is equally exceptional. The palate detects a harmonious interplay between the tartness and freshness of red plum and red cherry, accompanied by a delicate hint of strawberry. The effervescence of the bubbles adds an invigorating layer to the overall profile, akin to a freshly squeezed fruit juice.
Characterized by its zesty acidity, the wine maintains a resolutely tart and non-sweet disposition. Alongside these qualities, there is a noticeable yeastiness that enhances the complexity, all while a generous effusion of bubbles enlivens the palate. To enhance the wine’s easy-drinking nature and preserve its freshness, I chose to serve it slightly cooler than other sparkling wines, such as Champagne.
photo 2. More information on the right hand side of the label.
Determining whether a wine is well-crafted is often an objective evaluation, while expressing one’s connection to a wine is more subjective. To elaborate, declaring a wine as ‘good’ doesn’t necessarily equate to personal enjoyment. A similar principle applies to music and performers. Consider Deep Purple, a legendary band that actively graced stages from the 1960s through the 1970s. Even after an 80s reunion accompanied by lineup changes, the band’s musical essence endures, distinctly recognizable. Just as in the realm of wines, appreciating their music hinges on personal taste, which doesn’t necessarily encapsulate the entirety of their identity as artists and musicians.
While I typically refrain from pairing a bottle of wine with an entire album due to the potential diversity of songs within an album, there are exceptions, and this time is one of them. The lively and stylish qualities of the wine seemed to harmonize perfectly with Deep Purple’s Machine Head. Additionally, the album’s dynamic and fast-paced tracks complement the wine’s character in an intriguing manner.
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A while ago, I came across an article on Noble Rot discussing the intriguing interplay between Hip Hop and Burgundy wines during the 80s and 90s, which had evolved into a captivating cult phenomenon. While Burgundian wines are now gaining increased attention, they were notably less renowned back then compared to Bordeaux wines. Consequently, a unique trend emerged, captivating the interest of Hip Hop artists and their followers. These aficionados delved into savoring these wines within the intimate ambiance of secluded, speakeasy-like clubs that required cash entrance fees. During this era, music and wine information weren’t as readily accessible as they are today. This environment fostered gatherings among like-minded individuals who shared a mutual passion for both music and wine, subsequently sparking a phenomenon.
As an individual who relishes older rock and pop music (when I’m not indulging in classical repertoire), I resonate deeply with the concept of a community bound. The contrast is that music is now effortlessly available through various streaming platforms, though the live event experience has waned. Simultaneously, I remain perpetually on the hunt for dedicated and adept small growers and makers. I express my support by not only purchasing their wines but also delving deeper into their winemaking philosophy. Understanding the principles and beliefs that underlie their craft allows me to forge a more meaningful connection with their creations. This connection, rooted in shared values, enhances the enjoyment. In essence, I’m becoming a participant in a movement that merges the timeless classics with innovative yet novel creations.
Both wine and music possess the remarkable capacity to transcend the boundaries separating objectivity from subjectivity. While technical prowess holds significance in both the realms of music-making and winemaking, there emerges a transformative quality that allows one to truly relish the artistry inherent in these crafts. Much like savoring a fine wine, engaging with an album becomes a journey in itself. As we immerse ourselves in the subtle nuances, reactions, and interpretations within these artistic expressions, we become an integral part of that journey. This synergy of appreciation enriches the entire experience, ultimately rendering it a tapestry of delights to savor.
D., Mike. “The Hip Hop Burgundy Wine Cult.” Noble Rot no. 31, 2023.
Morris, Jasper. “Chanterêves.” In Inside Burgundy, 447–48. London: Berry Bros & Rudd Press, 2021.