Discovering the Enticing Allure of Yesteryears
photo 1.
1989 Château Sociando-Mallet
Johannes Brahms, String Sextet No. 1 in B flat major
–––
After dipping my toe into the sea of Burgundy wines, I found myself unable to escape its allure. In fact, I’ve been joyfully submerged, embracing every moment. The world of Burgundies has overwhelmed me in the best way possible, and I’ve been thoroughly enjoying the experience. As I’ve delved deeper, I have discovered numerous talented producers and learned to discern between different terroirs and plots within the same region. This journey has been nothing short of magnificent.
However, there came a day when I felt the urge to explore something new. A close friend from out of town was visiting, presenting the perfect opportunity for a change of pace. In our younger days, my friend and I had uncorked countless bottles of Bordeaux wines. Nostalgia and the desire to reignite that old passion led me to consider trying Bordeaux once again.
–––
A few weeks ago, my wife and I attended an event at Somm Cellars. While there, we had the opportunity to consult Yoomin for his recommendations on Bordeaux wines. Following his guidance, we were directed to their cellar, where Yoomin suggested the 1989 Château Sociando-Mallet from Haut-Médoc. Given our history of seeking his advice and thoroughly enjoying his selections, we trusted his judgment without hesitation.
The chosen bottle, along with other items we had purchased that day, was promptly delivered to our home. Anticipating the enjoyment of the wine, I took precautions the day before opening it. I stored the bottle upright, allowing any sediments and residues to settle at the bottom. Additionally, I ensured the blades of my bilame were meticulously cleaned. As this marked my inaugural experience with an “aged” Bordeaux, I harbored a mix of excitement and uncertainty about what lay ahead. Despite some reservations, I was genuinely enthusiastic to partake in the narrative that the wine would unfold.
With careful precision, I extracted the aged cork. To ensure the wine's stability, I gently transferred the contents into a decanter. A flashlight proved invaluable in aiding my separation of the sediments, which had settled near the shoulder of the bottle.
–––
The anticipation finally gave way, and the wine flowed into our awaiting glasses. A rich aroma of dark fruits and dry leaves enveloped us, an olfactory prelude to the experience ahead. The initial sip was a revelation; it was hard to fathom that the wine had matured gracefully within its glass confines for over three decades. Its youthfulness was unmistakable, accompanied by a beautifully structured body. Though the tannins lingered, they had mellowed with time, contributing to a rounded and harmonious flavor profile.
The palate revealed multiple flavors—dark plum, black currant, hints of cinnamon, nutmeg, and a touch of licorice and oak. As we savored the first glass, an almost reverent hush fell upon us. Words eluded us, replaced by a shared sense of awe as the wine wove its narrative around us.
Amidst the speechless awe of our companions, I found myself immersed in my own journey. I closed my eyes and envisioned strolling through a woodland during the autumn months. The trees adorned in hues of yellow, orange, red, and brown whispered tales of seasonal change. The path I walked was strewn with dry leaves, their delicate rustle accompanying my steps. A gentle breeze carried the aroma of fallen leaves and damp soil, heightening the sensory experience. The leisurely walk through this woodland reverie suddenly transformed as strains of music graced the air. It was the timeless classic of Johannes Brahms’s String Sextet No. 1 in B flat major.
–––
The wine’s inviting character and mature complexity seamlessly complemented Brahms’s timeless masterpiece. This composition had captured my heart back in college, where it was a cherished companion during many solitary nights in my dorm room. There was an inherent soothing quality to this piece, perhaps attributed to the warmth of the strings and the choice of the key of B flat. (I’ve always found major keys of B flat, F, and A flat to be particularly comforting.)
Brahms completed it in 1860, at the age of 27. Like many composers of the post-Beethoven era, Brahms grappled with the towering legacy of Beethoven’s artistry. It took Brahms a staggering fourteen years to compose his very first symphony, a genre Beethoven had championed. He envisioned this symphony as a direct continuation of the German symphonic lineage that Beethoven had pioneered.
However, it wasn’t just the symphony; Brahms also struggled to create a string quartet, another genre in which Beethoven had excelled. In fact, Brahms’s first string quartet was completed when he was forty after nine years. In lieu of a quartet, Brahms ingeniously composed a chamber piece for strings—the String Sextet—adding two additional instruments to the traditional quartet, two violins, viola, and cello. Although Brahms’s first String Sextet was crafted in his twenties, the composition was impeccably structured, adorned with exquisite melodies and harmonies that showcased his burgeoning genius.
photo 2. a quickly prepared dinner plate.
For our food pairing with the Sociando-Mallet, I opted for a pan-sear a succulent short rib steak cooked medium-rare, complemented by a side of sautéed mushrooms and string beans. To balance the richness, I prepared a quick coleslaw infused with a sandwich sauce. The classic steak and Bordeaux red combination was a match made in heaven, while the sides added an array of flavors to elevate the overall dining experience.
photo 3. If you want to read more about 2021 Chanterêves Pét Nat, click HERE.
Prior to indulging in the Bordeaux red, I had the pleasure of opening a bottle of 2021 Chanterêves Pét Nat, providing a delightful contrast to the red wine. This sparkling selection served as an intriguing prelude to our Bordeaux experience.
Following our meal, my friend and I continued to enjoy the Sociando-Mallet as we caught up on life’s happenings. It was a bittersweet moment when we reached the bottom of the bottle, prompting us to filter out the sediments and residues in a quest to savor every last drop.
This encounter marked our very first experience with an aged Bordeaux, and it left an indelible impression. The time and years spent in the bottle had truly transformed the wine, making the evening exceptionally memorable. It not only opened our eyes but also rekindled my deep-seated affection for Bordeaux red wines.
These are two outstanding live performance videos to share. The first video features the CMS Lincoln Center performance of the first movement. For the complete performance, simply click HERE.
James Ehnes, Sean Lee, violin; Yura Lee, Richard O'Neill, viola; Narek Hakhnazaryan, Timothy Eddy, cello
David Bowlin, Ayano Ninomiya, violin; Hsin-Yun Huang, Masumi Per Rostad, viola; Amir Eldan, Paul Katz, cello