2024: The Year of Beaujolais!
Why not assign reasons and purposes to drinking? As I delved into wines around the world, I made a decision: in 2024, I will be focusing on one particular region—Beaujolais. While I will certainly explore wines from other continents, countries, regions, and climates, I am intrigued by the idea of digging into one specific winemaking region to experience the various styles and terroirs it has to offer.
A few reasons influenced my choice of Beaujolais:
A. There are only 10 crus and 12 appellations!
In contrast to Burgundy or Bordeaux, Beaujolais offers a more manageable number of subregions and winemakers, making it a feasible focus for a year-long project rather than a lifelong journey. However, one could delve into detailed aspects such as varying granite percentages in the soil, different winemaking styles (traditional vs. Burgundian), and wines made by négociants and vignerons. For now, my plan does not involve an overly detailed project; I aim to gain a broader sense of what Beaujolais has to offer. It is more of a self-taught Beaujolais 101 for me.
B. I love natural wines.
Beaujolais stands out as one of the earliest winemaking regions in France where winemakers embraced organic and biodynamic viticulture. Personally, I am a staunch supporter of what is commonly known as natural or low-intervention wines. These wines often reveal the intriguing and true characteristics of the unique terroir and the fruit itself.
C. Beaujolais wines have become increasingly expensive.
With global wine prices on the rise, savvy consumers are seeking more affordable yet outstanding wines. Beaujolais has emerged as the go-to destination for such discerning wine enthusiasts. Before Beaujolais prices skyrocket, I wanted to embark on this project.
D. I can learn to appreciate Beaujolais wines.
I firmly believe in one’s ability to acquire a taste. In other words, I can learn to enjoy Beaujolais wines. While my previous attempts with Beaujolais bottles left me indifferent, it could be attributed to the wines not being of good quality or still being in a closed state. Alternatively, it might be as simple as my lack of familiarity with Beaujolais wines. Having enjoyed many wines made with Gamay, from single varietals to blends like Passe-tout-grains from Burgundy, I am confident that a deeper understanding of the region and its producers will lead to a newfound appreciation for Beaujolais wines. The key is to identify exceptional makers producing outstanding wines regardless of the circumstances.
My plan is to focus on one cru (one subregion) each month, with the possibility of revisiting the ones I particularly enjoyed in some remaining months. (My Beaujolais-loving friends insist that I should allocate extra time to Morgon and Fleurie.)
Beaujolais boasts 10 crus (Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly) and 12 appellations (including the 10 crus and Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages). While wines from popular regions like Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, and Morgon are readily available, I can afford to be more selective with winemakers and vintages. However, wines from less familiar regions like Régnié and Juliénas are scarce in my area, so I've been purchasing them whenever I come across them.
Appendix:
There are a few articles and books that I find helpful to start my Beaujolais journey. These are certainly good starting points. Suggestions are always welcome—whether about winemakers, regions, plots, types of wine, and so on.
Articles
Wine Folly: The Secret to Finding Good Beaujolais Wine
Verve Mag: A Guide to Our Favorite Beaujolais Producers
Verve Mag: All You Need to Know About the 10 Crus of Beaujolais
Flatiron Wines: A Guide to the 10 Crus of Beaujolais
Dedalus Wine: The 10 Best Beaujolais Producers
The Wine Society: The Ultimate Guide to Beaujolais Wine
Books:
Lynch, Kermit, and Gail Skoff. Adventures on the Wine Route: A Wine Buyer’s Tour of France. Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2019.
Chelminski, Rudolph. I’ll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant who Made it the World’s Most Popular Wine. New York: Gotham Books, 2007.
Lewin, Benjamin, MW. 2024: Beaujolais, Jura & Savoie. North Haven, CT: Lewin Guides, 2023.
Keeling, Dan, and Mark Andrew. Noble Rot: Wine from Another Galaxy. London: Quadrille Publishing Ltd., 2021.
Buller, Michael, and Pierre Cottin. The Winemakers Year in Beaujolais. London: Thames and Hudson, 1996.