When Reality Surpasses Expectations
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2019 La Ferme de la Sansonniére Les Vieilles Vignes des Blanderies
Hector Berlioz, Symphonie fantastique
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Have you ever encountered a moment when reality transcends the long-held expectations of yours? That’s exactly what happened with this wine. Life’s intriguing nature often surprises us with moments of extraordinary beauty. Allow me to share an experience where reality exceeded my wildest expectations.
One weekend while I was away, my wife embarked on a quest to Discovery Wine in search of hidden treasures. However, her true mission was to track down this specific wine. Unlike some, we possess an insatiable thirst for new experiences and adventures in the realm of natural wine. Even if the outcome is less than stellar, we can at least say we’ve tried it. The wine came to our attention through our friend Jason’s Instagram post, and my wife was intrigued to give it a taste. Natural wines have a reputation for being unpredictable, with some hits and misses. However, I had heard that when you stumble upon the perfect one, it adds a profound complexity and joy to your life. Well, guess what? We found it.
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I could spend hours describing just how extraordinary this wine was, but let's dive into the captivating nosing and tasting experience. With a grand two-day pairing plan in mind, we uncorked this gem, savoring it alongside grilled soft shell crabs on the first day and seared duck breast on the following day. The challenge was restraining ourselves from finishing the entire bottle in one sitting, ensuring we had some left for the next day. Remarkably, this wine harmonized flawlessly with both meals, elevating the dining experience to new heights.
The wine revealed a transparent golden color with a subtle brass hue, reminiscent of Tropicana apple juice. At the rim, it showcased increased transparency and remarkable clarity. Upon the initial nosing, a dominant aroma of apple cider captivated my senses, accompanied by delicate notes reminiscent of Craiglachie 13 Scotch whisky, which interestingly shares a green apple characteristic, and a subtle hint of greenness akin to dill. On the palate, it exuded the texture and flavor profile of apple juice, featuring notes of exceptionally ripe apple, slight hints of barley, and the sweet essence of ripe red plum pulp, sans the skins. Its finish was notably long, offering a gentle savory touch that followed the fruit-forward notes. This wine leans towards a fruit-driven character rather than floral nuances. Crafted in the esteemed Loire region, it is composed of 100% Chenin Blanc variety. The well-balanced acidity emerges gracefully, harmonizing with its delightful sweetness.
Over time, the wine gradually approached room temperature, unveiling additional layers of flavor. Distinct notes of dried apricot, salt, and white pepper became perceptible. To explore the wine further, I decided to chill it in a cooler, hoping to capture any elusive nuances. As it cooled, a subtle effervescence emerged on the palate, accompanied by an aromatic display that ignited the senses. Stone fruits like apricot and yellow peach took center stage, accompanied by earthy elements reminiscent of the forest floor and freshly harvested wild mushrooms. Delicate floral hints of elderflower also made an appearance, enhancing the wine's complexity. When paired with grilled soft shell crabs, the wine exuded a silky texture on the palate, complemented by delicate nuances of wildflower honey and a heightened presence of yellow peach.
On a side note, it is worth mentioning that the estate Ferme de la Sansonnière has been practicing biodynamic winemaking in the Loire region since 1990.
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With my efforts to save some for the following day's tasting, I had the opportunity to witness how this wine bloomed and revealed a completely different personality compared to the previous night. While the color remained unchanged, there were prominent notes of pear, in contrast to the dominant flavors of apple juice and ripe apple from the previous evening. Although the wine retained its fruit-driven character, there was now a subtle hint of white flowers in the background, continuously delighting my palate. The intriguing savoriness that had emerged earlier became even more nuanced, creating a captivating spectrum of umami flavors. Being aware of the wine's savoriness, I decided to pair it with lightly seasoned duck breast, seared to perfection in a pan.
The combination of the meal and wine was simply beautiful. The crunchiness of the duck skin was complemented by the wine's silkiness, creating a harmonious balance. The rendered duck fat blended perfectly with the wine's acidity, adding depth to the flavors. The interplay of sweetness and savoriness brought an additional layer of complexity to the succulent duck breast. In addition to the duck breast, I prepared a medley of roasted roots and vegetables, including carrots, sunchokes, radishes, rainbow collards, garlic shoots, and green garlic. The wine's earthiness paired harmoniously with the roasted roots and vegetables, resulting in a delightful combination of aromas reminiscent of a forest after rain.
After the meal, I took some time to savor the wine on its own and appreciate its individual qualities. The wine maintained its pleasant acidity, which provided a refreshing sensation on the palate. Upon further exploration, I was delighted to uncover a complex combination of tartness and bitterness, akin to the taste found in a pear pit or a pear’s core.
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Savoring this wine was a beautiful journey, akin to sitting on a porch and witnessing a golden sunset on a spring afternoon. The warmth that emanated from this wine made me long to linger in that everlasting moment. It was disheartening to return to reality, for the dreamy nature of this wine evoked memories of another magnificent masterpiece: Hector Berlioz's grand opus, Symphonie fantastique, specifically its first three movements.
In Berlioz's symphonic reverie and fantasy, the protagonist is portrayed as delusional, consumed by his search for love. This biographical musical work shares a similar fantastical quality that I enjoyed in the wine. Each movement of the symphony reveals certain resemblances and parallels with the wine. The first movement, “Rêveries – Passions” (Daydreams – Passions), captures the dreamlike atmosphere and unravels the tale of a young artist falling in love with an idealized woman who possesses all the charms he imagined. The woman, however does not reciprocate his affections, leading him into a spiral of obsession.
The second movement, “Un bal” (A ball), with its depiction of the wine’s elegant and yet nature, portrays the delusional writer in various social situations and settings such as festive parties, balls, and nature. Yet, no matter where he goes, the image of his beloved continues to haunt him, a persistent presence that shadows his every step.
The earthiness that pleasantly surprised me in the wine bears resemblance to the third movement, “Scène aux champs” (Scene in the country). In the countryside, he hears distant musical dialogues among the shepherds, reflecting on his loneliness, and becoming captivated by false hopes and fears. Towards the end of this movement, the protagonist becomes increasingly pessimistic and self-conscious. Musically, this movement is the most intriguing part of the symphony and mirrors the inherent beauty I found in the wine, but it is important to note that the storyline of the symphony does not directly align with the wine. Therefore, please do not associate the symphony's narrative with the wine.
If you are interested in delving deeper into this symphony, let me provide you with an overview of the events that unfold after the scenes in the countryside. Fueled by despair, the protagonist makes an attempt on his own life by poisoning himself, specifically with opium, a popular choice of drug during that era. However, due to a low dosage, his suicide attempt proves unsuccessful. The symphony’s final two movements, “Marche au supplice” (March to the Scaffold) and “Songe d'une nuit du sabbat” (Dream of a Night of the Sabbath), paint a vivid picture of his hallucinations induced by the opium.
In his altered state, he imagines murdering his beloved, witnesses his own execution, and experiences a vivid depiction of a witches’ sabbath and dance. These nightmarish visions consume him, serving as a haunting exploration of his tormented psyche.
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The protagonist’s experience in the symphony diverges from my own encounter with the wine. His expectations proved unfulfilled, ultimately leading to his downfall. On the contrary, my expectations for the wine were elevated, and it effortlessly surpassed them, offering a truly remarkable experience. Wines of such caliber bring me immense joy and serve as a wellspring of inspiration for both my writing and enjoyment of good music.
If you only associate natural wines with funky barnyard smells and yeasty flavors, it means you haven't experienced a true naturally crafted wine like this. Such an experience will change your understanding of them and make you want to learn more about organically made wines.
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Here are a few noteworthy performances of Berlioz’s Symphonie fantastique that I enjoy watching and listening to:
NDR Elbphilharmonie Orchester | Esa-Pekka Salonen; VIDEO
Orchestre de Paris | Christoph Eschenbach; VIDEO
* London Classical Players | Roger Norrington | AUDIO movts. 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5
* Please note that Norrington’s recording is a period instrument recording, which results in a different sound compared to modern interpretations.