Unfamiliarity within Familiarity
photo 1. What a beautiful label.
2019 Domaine Antoine Lienhardt Bourgogne Côte d’Or Gamay du Pierrot ‘Gamayoptère’
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Serenade No. 10 “Gran Partita,” K. 361
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When I first smelled and tasted this wine, I found myself imagining a scene of going up to an attic, opening a dusty chest, and flipping through an old photo album filled with pictures of grandparents in their youth. The wine managed to evoke a sense of unfamiliarity amidst a familiar sensation, if that makes any sense.
I subscribe to Somm Cellars’ daily newsletter to discover good deals and exciting winemakers. Through the newsletter, I came across Gamayoptère, which ended up being a last-minute addition to my recent order. I have certainly had Gamay in the past, but always from the Beaujolais region or a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay from Burgundy, such as passe-tout-grains. However, I had not yet tried a 100% Gamay from Burgundy. This particular wine is made with organic bought grapes from Fixin, one of my favorite small communes located in Côte de Nuits.
The 2019 Gamayoptère had an almost purplish garnet hue, so deep that it was difficult to see through, possibly the result of unfined and unfiltered juice. The initial nosing was full of surprises, with distinct aromas of very ripe strawberries, raisins, and smoke. Upon tasting, I found cranberry, black currant, sweet spices like cinnamon, and smoky notes on the palate. I took a moment to swirl the wine for about 5 minutes, hoping to uncover any hidden facets. As I swirled, it gradually revealed hints of blackberry, damp fallen leaves, and a sense of the forest. Overall, the wine showcased a captivating array of flavors and aromas, making it a delightful experience that left me intrigued and satisfied.
While savoring this wine, the recurring theme in my mind was the harmonious meeting of familiarity and unfamiliarity. I am well-acquainted with the taste of Gamay, yet a 100% Burgundian Gamay is uncharted territory for me. Despite having tried a few wines from Fixin in the past, this particular one brought something refreshingly new to the table. During supper, I exchanged thoughts with my wife, who also joined me in tasting this intriguing wine. To me, it evoked memories of the 2019 Monthélie-Douhairet-Porcheret Monthélie 1er Cru ‘Le Meix Bataille’ and the 2020 Jerome Galeyrand Fixin ‘Les Champs Vosger,’ and she also felt the shared characteristics of the 2020 Galeyrand Fixin. Interestingly, despite these familiar reference points, this wine offered a distinct and different experience altogether.
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Winemaker Antoine Lienhardt assumed control of the domaine in 2011, a domain that was once operated by his grandfather. Over the years, he followed relatively traditional winemaking techniques. However, since 2018, Antoine has transitioned to organic winemaking and obtained ECOCERT certification.
This particular wine was crafted from organically grown Gamay sourced from Fixin. The aging process took place in barrels, and fermentation occurred with indigenous yeast in open-top wood vats, using minimal sulfur. Notably, this wine remains unfined and unfiltered.
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Photo 2. Highly staged veggie board before roasting
I savored this wine over a two-day period, without any specific pairing in mind. However, I’ve always loved preparing chicken and enjoying it with Bourgogne rouge, as the dish’s flavors complement the wine without overpowering it. This combination tends to create a delightful synergy.
Photo 3. Whole Chicken Leg with a Medley of Roasted Veggies
For this meal, I cooked two whole chicken legs, searing them in a pan with avocado oil and a touch of butter for added flavor before roasting them in the oven. Alongside the chicken, I roasted a selection of vegetables, including Chioggia beets, regular beets, fennel bulb and leaves, potatoes, and Parisian carrots. After searing, the chicken continued to roast on top of the vegetables in the oven, allowing the veggies to be coated with the delicious chicken fat and butter. Typically, I avoid using butter when cooking for health reasons, but in this instance, I believed it would help mellow the wine’s volatile acidity (VA). Before serving, I broiled the chicken skin for three minutes to achieve a crispy texture.
Following my wife’s suggestion, we decided to decant a portion of the wine and chilled it in the refrigerator to subdue the VA. The chilled wine exhibited more pronounced berry and forest notes, and my wife quite enjoyed it this way as it masked the VA. On the other hand, I personally preferred the wine at its original temperature, as I found it paired better with the chicken dish. Remarkably, we didn’t have to compromise on our preferences, which made the supper a more enjoyable and harmonious experience.
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The most surprising aspect of this wine was its resilience and remarkable transformation on the second day of tasting. To my great pleasure, the wine not only survived but also blossomed, revealing its true potential. Witnessing it evolve into a fully ripened berry was a delightful and joyous moment that added an extra layer of enjoyment to the evening.
On the second day, the initial VA notes had somewhat dissipated, leaving behind a beautiful harmony of fruit aromas. The palate leaned more towards the fruity side, while the nose exuded a strong and captivating perfume. I was able to detect prominent flavors of dark plum and nutmeg, enhancing the wine’s complexity and depth. Interestingly, my wife also made an intriguing discovery during the tasting. She detected an aftertaste reminiscent of barley and grain, which led us to speculate that it might be a byproduct flavor resulting from the fermentation process or residual yeast.
Photo 3. Short Rib Kimchi Fried Rice with Fried Egg
The second-day pairing was a bit unusual and somewhat of a gamble. I decided to prepare Kimchi Fried Rice (김치볶음밥), one of my favorite Korean dishes to make at home due to its low-risk, high-return nature. While I knew from past experiences that Kimchi Stew (김치찌개) pairs exceptionally well with red wines like Russian Valley Pinot Noir, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, Chianti, and Bordeaux Table Red, I had never attempted to pair Kimchi Fried Rice with wine before. In theory, it seemed promising, and to my relief, it turned out to be a successful endeavor.
The combination was a revelation. Kimchi's high acidity and spices harmonized beautifully with the wine's fruitiness and nutmeg notes. The flavors of both the food and wine coexisted seamlessly, without one overpowering the other's subtle sweetness. To add an extra layer of depth, I introduced undercooked egg yolk and a touch of butter, bringing a creamy texture that further enhanced the overall flavor profile and balanced the wine's acidity.
This unexpected yet delightful union of Kimchi Fried Rice and French wine has inspired me to explore more international pairings in the future.
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Encountering the blend of familiarity and unfamiliarity in this wine transported me to a world of inspiration, where a melody began playing in my head—a scene from the renowned 1984 film “Amadeus” by Milos Forman. In this cinematic masterpiece, old Salieri vividly describes his initial encounter with Mozart’s music, a moment etched in his memory:
On the page it looked nothing. The beginning simple, almost comic. Just a pulse, bassoons and basset horns, like a rusty squeezebox. Then suddenly; high above it, an oboe, a single note, hanging there unwavering, till a clarinet took over and sweetened it into a phrase of such delight! This was no composition by a performing monkey! This was a music I’d never heard. Filled with such longing, such unfulfillable longing. It seemed to me that I was hearing the very voice of God.
Every time I listen to Mozart’s Adagio from Gran Partita, a sense of both familiarity and surprise washes over me. It’s astonishing how Mozart masterfully weaved together such a beautiful melody and harmonies that always sound fresh and new, yet provide a deep sense of comfort from knowing it so well. This, in my opinion, exemplifies the essence of Mozart’s genius—a singable quality that resonates regardless of one’s musical background.
As the horns, bassoons, second clarinet, and oboe create a nostalgic and squeezebox-like timbre in the background, the high first oboe entrance pierces through like a heavenly angel, soon joined by the first clarinet, creating an ethereal union of sounds. The opening sequence envelops the soul with immense comfort and tranquility.
Following this serene beginning, the first oboe and clarinet engage in a brief divergence during the ensuing minor section, as if engaged in a conversation or gentle disagreement. However, just as quickly, the opening theme returns, as if to smooth over any differences and restore harmony.
The return of the A section brings back the enchanting magic that Mozart had so brilliantly crafted at the beginning of the movement, leaving listeners captivated and moved by the beauty and depth of his music.
In the sixth movement of Mozart’s Gran Partita, I encountered yet another instance of familiarity meeting unfamiliarity, and it took me by surprise. This movement follows the theme and variations format. What struck me was the realization that this movement shares the exact material with the second movement of Mozart’s Flute Quartet in C major, with the exception of the third variation in the Gran Partita. While the authenticity of the Flute Quartet has been a subject of debate, there’s no denying its beauty, cherished by many, including myself. Recently having played the Flute Quartet, revisiting the sixth movement of Gran Partita was an eye-opening experience.
The contrast between the two versions is remarkable. The flute rendition is typically performed with a lively and perky demeanor, showcasing its playful nature. In contrast, the Gran Partita infuses the same material with a sense of elegance and whimsy, creating a different ambiance that captivates the audience in an entirely new way.
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The remaining parts of the piece are equally filled with an immense amount of beauty. Undoubtedly, this ranks among Mozart’s greatest works, although it’s not frequently performed due to its unusual instrumentation. Despite its relative rarity in concert settings, experiencing a live performance of the Gran Partita is an absolute must. The emotional depth and enchanting melodies woven throughout the piece make it a truly unforgettable and transformative musical experience.
Until the opportunity arises to witness it live, I encourage you to immerse yourself in some of the greatest recorded performances that have deeply resonated with me. These recordings beautifully capture the essence of the Gran Partita and allow you to savor its brilliance at your leisure.
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Video: Members of Metropolitan Opera Orchestra
Audio: Members of Metropolitan Opera Orchestra | James Levine
Audio: Academy of St. Martin in the Fields | Sir Neville Marriner
Morris, Jasper. “Domaine Antoine Lienhardt.” In Inside Burgundy, 397. London: Berry Bros. & Rudd Press, 2021.