Underrated Hypes
photo 1.
2018 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir ‘Knox Alexander’
Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, The Sleeping Beauty
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With all the work piling up, I found myself lacking the mental capacity to pen down my wine-drinking journey. However, that doesn’t mean I didn’t unwind with a glass in hand. In fact, I uncorked numerous bottles—some disappointments, many delights, yet none exceptional enough to inspire me to write. That is until I encountered the 2018 Au Bon Climat ‘Knox Alexander,’ which stood out prominently among the wines I tasted.
A while ago, my wife delved into Californian Pinot Noir inspired by Burgundian reds, leading her to the discovery of Au Bon Climat and its legendary vintner, Jim Clendenen. Young Jim, smitten by Burgundian wines, found a comparable vine-growing haven in Santa Barbara County—cooled by Pacific breezes, enriched by marine-based soils, and nestled in valleys to maximize sunlight.
Intrigued by the wine and Jim’s dedication to quality, I acquired Knox Alexander during one of my Albany trips in May from Empire Wine. It took me a while to muster the courage to open this bottle. Recent disappointments with non-French wines, specifically those outside Burgundy, made me hesitant. But, with Knox Alexander sitting atop my CellarTracker inventory, the buzz surrounding it was hard to ignore.
Striving for objectivity, I read others’ reviews. However, as I delved into more about Knox Alexander, I found it increasingly difficult not to form expectations. Eventually, curiosity won, and I decided to uncork it. The wine exceeded the hype, revealing complexity on both the nose and palate. As it aged in the bottle, its color transformed to garnet on the rim, presenting a symphony of strawberry, raspberry, cranberry, pomegranate, vanilla, nutmeg, clove, and milk chocolate. It was a testament to the endeavor to infuse Californian soil with a French soul.
Despite feeling the wine hadn’t fully unveiled itself on the first day, I restrained myself from sipping it all night—no easy feat for a person in their 30s. On the second day, the wine blossomed, showcasing more of its secondary and tertiary characters, with prominent clove, vanilla, and newfound leather notes.
photo 2. In terms of pairing, I roasted kabocha and garlic pieces with olive oil and a drizzle of hot honey and sautéed white mushrooms after grilling fillet mignon. The lean fillet mignon complemented the fruity and sweet-spicy notes of the wine exceptionally well. The classic combination of quality red meat and red wine is always a winning choice.
My enjoyment extended to the fourth day, where candy notes, akin to red Jolly Rancher, emerged. With prolonged exposure to air, the wine shifted from berry to red plum notes. The gradual evolution of Knox Alexander fascinated me, akin to savoring a lengthy piece of music. Normally, I finish a bottle in two days, but the wine’s slow transformation felt akin to the completion one experiences listening to an entire ballet or opera.
Within a month, friends and colleagues mentioned Tchaikovsky’s Sleeping Beauty, the complete ballet. Though I had heard parts of it, I hadn’t experienced the full piece. Comparing it to my wine journey, I found parallels in its charming moments, luscious melodies, beautiful harmonies, grand structures, and, most importantly, its dramatic flair.
Describing Au Bon Climat ‘Knox Alexander’ as an underrated hype, I draw a similar comparison to Tchaikovsky’s ballet music, especially the Sleeping Beauty. Like Knox Alexander, Tchaikovsky’s ballets, overshadowed by his symphonies and concertos, deserve more recognition. While Swan Lake and Nutcracker are enchanting, Sleeping Beauty, filled with more charms and subtle complexity, captured my attention.
I immersed myself in the complete Sleeping Beauty multiple times over the past weeks, especially during long-distance drives, making my commute to school to teach and concerts to perform more enjoyable. Once again, I realized that hype builds over time because it’s good. Not every hype deserves its status, but Au Bon Climat ‘Knox Alexander’ and Tchaikovsky’s Sleeping Beauty undoubtedly merit more recognition.
Recordings:
Valery Gergiev | Kirov Orchestra | Complete Ballet Audio
Robert Reimer | Deutsch Oper Berlin | Complete Ballet Video
Appendix:
To read more about Au Bon Climat’s philosophy, please visit their website.
After attending the Californian Wine class at Jersey Wine and Spirits, my interest in tasting quality Californian wines has been significantly piqued. (Post: Californian Visionaries, Blazing New Trails)
Reflecting on my experience with the 2018 Au Bon Climat ‘Knox Alexander,’ I find myself yearning for a couple more bottles. The thought of aging it longer and sampling it five and ten years later tantalizes my taste buds. Once at its peak and once in its declining phase.
Eager to continue exploring my appreciation for ballet, I’m now determined to check when the New York City Ballet and American Ballet Theatre will be performing the Sleeping Beauty. Fortunately, they’re only a few subway stops away from me, making it a convenient and delightful cultural excursion.