Celebration of Unity at Rolo’s

Do you have a bottle (or bottles) of wine that you've been saving for a special moment? Well, I can relate. I have a few bottles, and recently, I had the opportunity to open one to celebrate an anniversary with my wife. Allow me to share the delightful experience with you.

A few months ago, we came across Rolo's in Queens—an establishment by Gramercy Tavern alums renowned for its dry-aged steak, burgers, lasagna verde, cocktails, and more. Although it's a bit of a commute from where we live, we decided to make the journey on a special day. We reserved our table at their earliest offered time, determined to be the first people to experience their supper of the day and indulge in their renowned dry-aged steak. Originally, we considered driving there due to the distance, but the temptation to bring along a nice bottle of wine stopped us.

It was a hot and humid day, but surprisingly, the God of NYC Commute seemed to be on our side for our special day. We didn't encounter a single issue with our subway transfers throughout the day. We managed to catch the train just two minutes before its arrival, waited only a minute for the transfer, and astonishingly, there were no delays, even though it was the weekend. The journey back was equally smooth, with no delays and a maximum wait of three minutes for the subway. In the end, it took us less time to reach our destination via subway than it would have taken us to drive through Downtown Manhattan and Brooklyn to Queens.

We arrived at Rolo's in Ridgewood, Queens earlier than our 5 o'clock reservation. After checking in with the hostess and informing her that we had brought a bottle with us, we were promptly seated. To kick off our anniversary celebration, our waiter graciously surprised us with complimentary glasses of Prosecco. With our glasses raised, we embarked on a culinary mission. Our main goal was to savor the renowned dry-aged steak, but we also had our sights set on trying Rolo's famous Lasagna Verde. Our friend Jason from Jersey Wine and Spirits had highly recommended their burgers as well. As we perused the menu, we found ourselves unable to narrow down our choices, so we decided to indulge and ordered everything that caught our attention.

Photo 2. 2016 Cascina Baricchi Barbaresco Riserva Rosé delle Casasse

The wine we brought with us was the 2016 Cascina Baricchi Barbaresco Riserva Rosé delle Casasse, which I purchased at Eataly Vino in Flatiron based on a recommendation from Frankie, one of the store's experts. In May, I had also picked up the 2016 Manuel Marinacci Barbaresco and the 2015 Manuel Marinacci Barbaresco Riserva, and when I asked Frankie for a Barbaresco that offered a different experience from the Marinacci wines, he promptly suggested the 2016 Baricchi without any hesitation.

This wine proved to be full of delightful surprises, one after another. Its watery and thin pouring nature reminded me of a Burgundian Pinot Noir, but I was immediately captivated by its strong, powerful, and enticing aroma. The nose revealed potent notes of cherry, oak, spices like anise and cinnamon, cassis, and black plum. After savoring the intoxicating aroma, I couldn't resist the urge to take a sip. The wine presented flavors of fresh cherry, smoke, charred wood, leather, and black pepper. Its high tannin content contributed to a robust and muscular structure. I was filled with anticipation to witness how this wine would evolve and complement the food we ordered.

Photo 3. *Grilled Roman Beans Marco Polo* and *Olive Oil & Flaky Salt Polenta Bread*

Our antipasti arrived, featuring the Olive Oil & Flaky Salt Polenta Bread alongside the Grilled Roman Beans Marco Polo. The Marco Polo sauce packed a delightful spicy kick that harmonized perfectly with the soft and fluffy Polenta Bread, reminiscent of the dough at Una Pizza Napoletana. The contrasting textures came alive as the crunchy romano beans mingled with the delicate bread, while the olive oil from the bread helped balance the spiciness of the Marco Polo sauce. Moreover, this delectable symphony of flavors seamlessly complemented the wine, enhancing its inherent smoky and oaky notes. As we savored the generous portion of the antipasti, we soon realized the need to pace ourselves in order to fully enjoy the main dishes awaiting us.

Photo 4. *Double Cheeseburger with Grilled Onions,* *and* *Dijonaise*

The first of the three main dishes arrived: Double Cheeseburger with Grilled Onions, and Dijonaise. This is the dish that draws people to Rolo's. The one that has earned them the fame. I tried my best not to let my expectations soar, but it was hard not to anticipate something extraordinary. We divided the burger in half, reserving the slightly larger portion for my wife as a gesture of true love on this special day.

The burger was cooked to a perfect medium, boasting juiciness and a delightful blend of flavors. The patty itself showcased a beautiful lush meat flavor that effortlessly mingled with the silkiness of the Dijonaise. The tannins from the wine worked their magic, breaking down the proteins and fats, resulting in a silky smoothness that we hadn't experienced until now. I kept repeating to my wife, ‘This is it. This is what a burger should be.’ It became evident why people rave over Rolo's burgers.

Photo 5. *Two Sheet Lasagna Verde Bolognese*

The Two Sheet Lasagna Verde Bolognese was finally served, and it was one of the main reasons we chose to come here. Our decision to dine here was solidified after watching an enticing Eater video showcasing Rolo's kitchen staff preparing this beautiful green lasagna from scratch. Every crucial element of the dish, from the hand-rolled lasagna sheets to the homemade bolognese and béchamel sauce, was crafted in-house. Witnessing the dedication that went into making each ingredient cemented our desire to try this dish.

With high expectations, we eagerly indulged in the lasagna, and it surpassed all anticipation. The soft lasagna sheets, delicately coated with cheese and béchamel, flawlessly harmonized with the boldness of the bolognese sauce. For a change of pace, we savored the crusty and toasty edges of the lasagna. The harmony between the wine and the lasagna was remarkable. The charred wood and smoky characteristics of the wine were beautifully mellowed by the béchamel and olive oil in the lasagna. Additionally, the acidity from the tomato and meat bolognese sauce highlighted the fruity aspects of the wine. The experience was just as jaw-dropping as tasting the burger, if not even more so.

Photo 6. *House Dry-aged Prime Cuts* (*Grilled over Wood Fire and Served with Green Garlic Butter*)

As we paced ourselves to savor all the dishes we had ordered, the House Dry-aged Prime Cuts arrived. Among the various options available that day, we chose the 16 oz. sirloin, considering it the smallest portion after our indulgence in numerous other dishes. Although I typically avoid using the phrase ‘melts in your mouth’ for various reasons, I must admit that there is no better way to describe the tenderness, juiciness, and succulence of this steak. Grilled over a wood fire, the charred wood aroma infused the steak, and I was deeply impressed by the skillful temperature control exhibited during the cooking process.

The richness of the meat, combined with the green garlic butter, worked harmoniously with the high tannins from the wine. Not only did the wine open up more than it did upon opening, but the complex flavors of the meat also brought out entirely new facets of the wine. I detected notes of tobacco, raisin, and dried cherry. This is precisely why I always love pairing complex wines with dry-aged meat, as they reveal hidden flavors that might otherwise remain unnoticed.

Despite feeling quite full from our meal, we couldn't resist continuing to savor the meat—it was simply too delicious to stop. I have always believed that truly good food will remain enjoyable even when you're full, and this experience only solidified that belief.

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What an incredible supper! It was absolutely worth the trip to Ridgewood, Queens. I would gladly make the commute again to relish their thoughtfully prepared dishes. The friendly staff, evident passion for their craft, and innovative menu will undoubtedly continue to attract gourmands. Our visit not only celebrated our unity but also honored the unity of Gramercy Tavern alums who created this outstanding institution in Queens. Discovering the harmonious union of food and wine was truly a joyous experience in life. Cheers to unity!

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If you haven't been to Rolo's yet, I highly recommend it. You won't be disappointed!

The B-roll